Sweets for All Saints Day

PalmaThe feast of All Saints’ Day is one of the most important in the traditional calendar of our islands and the most important in autumn. In the transition from the days of light and life to the days of darkness, we find the ideal setting to commemorate and visit the dead together and to celebrate various rites that go back many centuries.

The All Saints’ Day festival has its own taste, a taste made from the fruits of the season such as sweet potatoes or pumpkin, but particularly characterized by sweet dishes such as donuts, panellets, death rolls or sugary rosaries.

The most popular lollipop these days has been the sugary rosary. This candy chain was traditionally made by combining the grains of the avemaries, represented by sweet rolls or tablets, with the grains of our parents, made from candied fruit and topped with a pumpkin paten, which is often decorated with the stamp of a saint or an angel.

Sweet and savory donuts

The donuts that are currently associated with the virgins belonged to All Saints’ Day, as Father Ginard points out. They were made with a hole, fried with new oil and accompanied by honey or rice. The popularity of these little bites is reflected in the sheer variety of recipes that we have always found in every cookbook. We find them sweet and savory, made from potatoes, sweet potatoes and other fruits and vegetables. We also differentiate between two ways of preparing them: Lochkrapfen made from a dough made from flour, eggs, maybe a tuber or fruit, sometimes with yeast, or Windkrapfen made from a batter made from scalded flour.

Panellets and funerary rolls are related to ancient grave cults in which bread offerings were offered on graves. Death rolls in the form of a head and a shroud were typical of Menorca. Its elaboration fell into oblivion and now revives attempts at restoration. Evidence of this can be found in Pedro Ballester’s book De Re Cibaria, which was made from flour, cow lard, water and a large amount of yeast.

The panellets appear in our recipes from the s. XIX. And they were made from ground almonds, sugar, and eggs. The recipe currently includes potatoes or sweet potatoes and other nuts like pine nuts, coconut or chocolate. Due to their recipe and production method, they are related to other sweets in our confectionery such as bitter, breadcrumbs or almond cans.

Perhaps all of these delicacies do and make it better to wear the family gatherings that are celebrated for life and death these days, accompanied by a cup of mistela or sweet wine.

The tablets shown here were made according to a recipe from the Salesian Sisters of the Visitation of Santa Maria de Palma, collected in the great work La cuina conventual a Mallorca by Jaume Llabrés and Aina Pascual (2005).

PLATES

We will mix the almond with the sugar, the grated zest of the lemon and the cinnamon. Add the egg yolks and mix well. Beat the egg white until stiff and add to the batter. If it doesn’t bind, we add another egg white.

To make different panellets, we divide the pasta according to the desired variations. In my case, I split it into three parts. I made balls out of one and covered them with pine nuts. For a second I added a tablespoon of pure cocoa and made balls whipped with ground almonds, and from what I had left I made portions that I made in the shape of a shroud to remind of the death rolls.

In any case, bake for 10-12 minutes at 180 ° C or bake until golden brown, making sure that they do not burn or become very hard.

You can use an egg yolk to coat the pine nuts. I didn’t, however, and they clung smoothly.

You can also substitute coconut or other nuts for almonds.

INGREDIENTS

  • 600 g ground almonds
  • 400 g of sugar
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 2 egg whites
  • 1 lemon
  • 1 tbsp ground cinnamon
  • pinion
  • cocoa

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